Perfumes,

Best in iris – your choices part 1

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Another week and another perfume recommendation post. This time I asked you to recommend me something with a note of iris, which for the last couple of years seemed to be a number one floral note. And to be completely honest with you, I do own a fair share of iris/orris perfumes. Naiviris by Pierre Guillaume, Mon âme by 1907 Perfumes or Hiris by Hermès to just name a few. However the idea of this challenge is to discover what you guys enjoy to wear.

As always the reviews are based on one day wear test (except Iris Fauve), which I usually am against. I believe that nowadays too many things are judged too quickly. Take a look at youtube beauty gurus, who determine if a foundation is a hit or miss based on one day wear. But this challenge aims to simply introduce me to more perfumes, which I will expand in the future.

Monday: Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena

Starting out with an exceptional fragrance slowly becomes a tradition here. What can I say? It’s marvelous! Very dry, smoky (thanks to tabacco) and of course super powdery, which is what I love the most. I know that Iris Nazarena was inspired by a rare iris species called Iris Bismarckiana (or Nazarena) that has a significant look. However when I smell this perfume I see one of those deep purple almost black irises. Like from Georgia O’Keeffe’s painting.

Black Iris III by Georgia O’Keeffe (1926)
(Public domain via WikiArt)

Tuesday: Atelier des Ors Iris Fauve

The opening of this perfume is beautiful. It is a true cinnamon explosion! The cinnamon here is incredibly realistic and deliciously yummy like a finest desert. If you’re a gourmand fan then I’m telling you you’ll love it. There is just a teeny-tiny problem. I don’t get much of an iris. Or, should I say, nothing at all. I even tested this perfume couple of times and still nothing. But well… french fauve translates to tawny, which for sure you’ll get. Just without the floral part.

Wednesday: Annick Goutal Tenue de Soiree

It smells a bit… dated. Not 1930s vintage with sparkling aldehydes, or mossy chypre, but two decades ago vintage. This perfume will travel you back in time to the early 2000s when Gucci Rush was a thing. The only thing is that Gucci Rush has stood the test of time. If Tenue de Soiree will? I’m not so sure.

Thursday: Frederic Malle Iris Poudre

August in South of France. You travelled here in order to escape dog days in a big city and stayed in a charming provençal style hotel. Most days you spend on endless picnicking, riding a bike, swimming and making bouquets out of wild flowers. After a whole day you go to sleep in freshly washed cotton sheets. As your head touches the pillow you inhale clean and soapy scent. A big vase with irises stands next to your bed. You fall asleep happy and content.

Friday: Rosendo Mateu no 3

A musky woody iris. I’d say that on me this perfume smells more of jasmine and neroli than iris. But it is definitely a lovely composition made with fine ingredients and finesse.

Saturday: Dior Homme Intense

Personally I was very much looking forward to test this one. I need to confess that I do lack of knowledge when it comes to a lot of perfumes that are dedicated strictly to men. Hence why I was excited to start to explore this unknown word. I was also told that there is nothing ‘homme’ about this perfume. So you know, a big claim. But dear class, repeat after me: you shall never judge a book by its cover and a perfume by its head. Never! And Dior Homme Intense is a perfect example why. Because the way how this perfume develops is just mesmerising.

Sunday: Ormonde Jayne Vanille d’Iris

Ok. If you read my blog then YOU KNOW how I feel about vanilla. And it has nothing to do with this vanilla ice-cream idea that represents boring/basic personality. I just don’t like it. I don’t like perfumes that are “warm”, “cozy”, or make you want to sit by the fire. Moreover a vanilla note in perfumes is quite insipid for me. However Vanille d’Iris is a totally different story. This fragrance is such an interesting concept of juxtaposing dry and cold orris with warm and creamy vanilla. And the result is just so pretty. It is probably also the most wearable composition out all tested, but seriously… is there anything wrong with it?

Still Life with Irises by Vincent Van Gogh (1890)
(Public domain via WikiArt)

Summary

This week I really discovered that iris compositions don’t always need to be woody and musky, but also oriental, spicy, aldehydic, or even chypre. I personally still enjoy the most when iris is powdery and dry. Out of all perfumes tested I need to take a closer look to the Iris Nazarena and Iris Poudre. Also in the plans I have to write Rosendo Mateu brand review.

An interesting ‘side effect’ of this challenge is the fact, that in order to smell some of your chosen perfumes I need to visit my local niche perfume stores. Mostly: Spitzenhaus, Osswald and Suskind. And of course there would be nothing unusual about it, but every time I visit them, I always end up with a handful of more perfume recommendations and samples to discover. Oh well… A life of a fraghead is a never ending journey through more and more scents 🙂

Love, Kasia xx

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A polish girl living in Switzerland, who has a degree in musicology and is obsessed with perfumes. I own 70+ dresses. And even more perfume bottles.

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